User Manual

Safety Instructions

Improper installation, usage, and service can cause severe damage to the wheels and pose a hazardous condition for the rider. To ensure a reliable riding experience with XTONE products, please read and follow these instructions. Even if you have been riding or building wheels for years, the instructions and suggestions are specific to XTONE carbon products and you should be mindful of them before your first ride or wheel building. 

  1. Special tools and basic knowledge of handling the bicycle and wheels are required for installation and maintenance. If in doubt, please consult a reliable wheel builder or get in touch with us.
  1. The rim/wheelset must be compatible with other parts of the bicycle including the tires, fork, axles, and cassette. Incompatibility can cause poor performance and potentially damage the wheels or frame/fork.
  1. We design and test your wheels for specific riding purposes. Unfit usage can shorten the product’s life and even cause a wheel to crack, causing injuries to the rider. Be sure that you’ve purchased the correct product for the job.
  1. Use your hands to install the tires if you can. Re-insert the tire into the deepest part of the rim over and over again to create enough slack. If you must use a tire lever, use plastic. DO NOT use a metal tire lever as it will permanently damage the rim.
  1. Be watchful of the hazards in riding (potholes, debris, railway tracks, etc). These can cause a big crash resulting in severe injuries.
  1. After an excessive impact or crash, there may not be an immediate sign of failure. Please wipe down the rim, and even remove the tire for inspection, and report any potentially severe damage back to us.
  1. Rim brake customers – Check your rim brake pads regularly for pollutants like metal flakes and stones that can ruin the brake track. DO NOT use pads with significant wear.
  1. DO NOT overheat the wheels. High temperatures can occur in bike transport when a wheel is placed next to the exhaust fumes from an automobile. Overheating of the rims will void the warranty as it damages the composite structure.
  1. Regularly inspect the wheels and watch out for any signs of cracks, scratches, dents, delaminations, or discoloration which could indicate that the wheels may need to be replaced or serviced. If in doubt, please contact us.

Four important notes to make your wheel building easier

(1) Make sure your new rim(s) are built by a certified or experienced carbon wheel builder.

A professional carbon wheel builder will use a tension meter and ensure that the wheels are built with very even tension and with stress properly relieved.

(2) Follow the spoke direction shown on a small arrow sticker.

The rims have angled nipple holes that alternate left/right/left. Please lace spokes in the correct direction to avoid hole damage. The arrow sticker is attached near the valve hole.

(3) On asymmetric wheel building.

For asymmetric rims, you need to distinguish their shorter and longer arcs. When viewing from the rim channel, it’s easiest to find the shorter side and longer side by looking at the valve hole in relation to the nipple holes. Another way to decide is via the serial number label. Place the rim sideways vertically in front of you, locate the serial number label, and flip the rim if needed to put the label right side up. View the rim from the center channel: the upper part is the shorter arc, and the lower part is the longer.

Please make sure the rim is in the correct orientation – different for front and rear wheels!

Front Wheels: the shorter arc for the drive side, the longer arc for the non-drive (disc) side

Rear Wheels: the longer arc for the drive side, the shorter arc for the non-drive (disc) side

(4) Build the wheelset with proper spoke tensions.

Bring the spokes to an even tension with a maximum tolerance of 5% for all drive and all non-drive sides. For the recommended spoke tensions.

 

Non-drive side (Front)

Drive side (Rear)

MTB & Road Disc Wheelset

120-130 kgf

120-130 kgf

Road Non-Disc Wheelset

100-110 kgf

125-135 kgf

Fat Bike Wheelset

100-110 kgf

100-110 kgf

*It is better to make sure the max spoke tension is less than 135kgf in wheel building

Tire Installation
1 Tip – For Clincher or Tubeless. Fully seat one side of the tire bead into the deepest part of the center channel. You may need to re-adjust around the tire several times to get as much slack as possible. Then push the other side of the tire into the deep center of the rim and go from there. Always install by hand before resorting to tire levers.

Before contacting us for more help, double check:

a) Is the tire width recommended for your rim?

b) Intended tire (tubeless/tube)?

c) Too thick tubeless rim tape?

d) If your tire looks too tight, try a tubeless tire as it has a more consistent bead diameter.

2 Tips – Approximate maximum tire pressure. Pay attention to the maximum pressure set by the rim manufacturer and tire manufacturer and stick to the lower limit. For hookless rims, do not inflate the tire to high pressure or you may cause the tire to blow out.

3 Tips – Use tire levers. Use your hands or a plastic tire lever. Do not use metal tire levers as they can damage the tape or even the rim.

How to Set Up Your Wheel Tubeless

1-Install the tubeless valve stem and tighten the collar to get a good seal.

2-Install one side of the tire bead onto the center channel of the rim.

3-Install the other side of the tire bead into the center channel.

If you don’t have an injection tool, install the sealant when ¾ of the way in. Work the sealant into the area on either side of the bead before trying to pop the tire all the way out.

4-Inject the sealant through the valve stem (cut out the core).

5-Inflate the tire to push the bead outward onto the bead seat on either side of the center channel.

6-Turn the wheel to cover the inner tire wall with sealant.
Tech Note: Double check your tire is tubeless compatible. Only use plastic if a lever is needed. For brand new tires, use a tube and inflate the tire overnight to straighten it out to prevent folding too hard. If the tire is tight, repeatedly work the tire bead into the deepest part of the rim and avoid aggressive use of the tire lever. Also, try lubricating the rim tape and tire bead with soapy water or sealant. To make tire bead installation easier, fully seat either side of the tire bead into the deep center channel (making sure the clearance space allows for a smooth installation), then push the other side of the tire bead into the center channel. You will hear a sound as the bead drives into the bead seat. Refer to the instructions on the tubeless sealant package for recommendations on amounts.

Tubeless Leaks: 4 Common Mistakes

1st – The wheel tape may be disturbed during tire installation, usually by applying too much force with the tire stem. Remove the tire, clean it, then re-pick up the rim to create a good seal. To clean the rim, use isopropyl alcohol and then completely dry on the tape.

2nd – Your tire may be tubeless incompatible or too tight to sit on the rim.

3rd – Your valve stem is undersized, or may be overshot. Remove the valve to take a closer look and readjust the rim if needed.

4th – Not enough sealant. Inject more sealant through the valve or break the tire’s bead to pour more sealant in and re-mount the tire.

Recommended Tubeless Tire Pressures

We have divided rim models into three categories based on their most common uses: 1) Smooth Road, 2) Gravel/Rough Trail, 3) Mountain/Plus/Fat/Fat Bike. Please refer to the chart below to find the appropriate PSI based on your weight and tire size. Use the recommended PSI as a starting point and make small adjustments to better suit your needs.

If you have any questions, please contact

Email: info@xtonebicycle.com

Phone: +86-13856425393

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